Immerse yourself in this wine world capital.
Bordeaux is where you go to relax and indulge. It is slow and hearty, like a lazy afternoon with an old friend. It encompasses the uniquely French notion of ‘l’art de vivre’: a place to enjoy simple pleasures, savour moments, and prioritise quality above quantity, though there is quantity enough for those who like that too. Whilst there is no shortage of things to do in and around the La Perle d’Aquitaine (Pearl of Aquitaine), the real joy is in the sunshine, small-plates and world-class selection of fine wines.
A self-guided history tour avec le vin
Bordeaux is both walkable and simply lovely to walk around. By planning a self-guided tour, you can explore the grand boulevards and winding streets of the historic centre, stopping off at local wine bars for refreshments. For sights, start at Place des Quinconces, a landmark piazza with monuments and ornate fountains, which frequently hosts fairs and markets, including the Quinconces Flea Market, one of the largest and oldest flea markets in the region. Once you’re done thrifting, head to La Vinotheque wine cellar for a glass of vintage before continuing to Place de la Bourse.
Bordeaux’s iconic 18th century square is framed by beautiful neoclassical French architecture, which now houses the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the National Museum of Customs and the Central Pavillion. Yet it is the newest addition to the historic square which has attracted the most attention. Between the tramway and the river sits the Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror), the world’s largest reflecting pool and most photographed monument in Bordeaux. Option to cool off at the pool – or better – at Blouge wine bar, Bordeaux’s best kept secret, which a unique selection of wines which come with their own stories and stunning selections of small-plates.
Continue south to the La Porte Cailhau, the castle-like city gates topped with Disney-esque blue-grey steeples, and, finally, Pont de Pierre. This picturesque bridge of black wrought iron lamp-posts has 17 arches connecting the east bank to the west. Head back towards Place des Quinconces and finish up in the beautifully designed Le Bar à Vin which stocks the entire Bordeaux range – reds, dry and sweet whites, rosés, clairets and sparkling wines – and is very good value for money.
A ‘sensory experience’ at La Cité du Vin (The City of Wine)
Contrary to how it sounds, Le Cité du Vin is much more than giant wine bar. In fact, it is a giant carafe. It’s shiny, silver base sits amongst bushy green foliage, like a snake curled around itself. Its neck a vertical rise of tall glass shards, with dashes of yellow and green to make it shimmer. Inside, Le Cité du Vin is a cultural centre dedicated to the living heritage of wine, taking you on a journey around the world of wine and the vine, from Antiquity to present day, and across five continents, ending at the 8th floor Belvedere bar for a birds-eye view of Bordeaux, and a complimentary glass of your chosen wine. In addition to a permanent exhibition, Le Cité du Vin has a wine tasting offering, which includes the more conventional tasting and an immersive ‘sensory’ tasting. The highly recommended latter pairs a selection of wines with artistic installations to transport you through the seasons.
Just across the road from Le Cité du Vin is Les Halles Bacalan food market, which hosts 25 regional producers, artisans, and chefs. Designed to replace the old Bordeaux Nord market, which had been a staple in the area for over 50 years, it is fairly new on the scene but has already become a much-loved local spot in Bordeaux. A gastronomic dream of seafood fresh from Arachon Bay, well-stocked fromageries, and wine by the glass, it is the perfect place to sample a variety of local dishes and have a cheeky top-up.
A visit to Darwin’s organic micro-winery
Travel across the bridge to Bordeaux’s right bank to visit Darwin, an ‘urban ecosystem’ built on a former military barrack, and a mecca for street art. Launched in 2011, the sustainability-centred mini metropolis has the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, selling delicacies made with veggies grown from the urban garden, coffee roasted on site, and locally-produced beer.
A Bordeaux sub-city wouldn’t be complete without a winery. La Micro Winerie was set up in 2021, using organic and biodynamic farming methods to produce wine from hand-picked grapes. The organic wine is produced in the same old place as it’s sold; a convenient and deliberate move. By bringing the production site to the wine bar, guests can learn about wine production without going to a chateau to visit a cellar. Tours and tastings are on the house, with the option to buy a bottle after – I’d recommend Zephyr, a zesty sauv-sémillon blend.
In the wine hills of Saint-Émillion
A short train ride from Bordeaux is the medieval town of Saint-Émillion. Set amongst rolling green wine hills, streaked with grape vines, and dotted with charming chateaux, it looks something out of a fairy tale. The town was awarded UNESCO world heritage status on account of its Romanesque churches and ruins, and history of wine-making which dates back to 56 BC.
Today, there are over 800 wineries in Saint-Émillion. Although the commune is renowned for its ripe, rich reds, the plethora of wine bars lining the steep, narrow streets boast a vast range of wines, including whites, roses and sparkling from the wider region. For those without wheels, there are a number of vineyards in walking distance of Saint-Émillion, bicycles available for hire, and the Le Train des Grands Vignobles (mini tourist train) which operates on loop.
It goes without saying – there is overwhelming choice in Saint Emilllion. Endeavour to visit a wine bar for variety, a cellar for a behind-the-scenes experience, and a vineyard to drink in your surroundings, and then some. The gorgeous Chateau Sansonnet provides the perfect setting for just that.
Essentials
Getting there and around
Several UK airports offer flights to Bordeaux (BOD). Flights to Bordeaux are available from London Gatwick (LGW), London Luton (LTN), London City (LCY), and Heathrow (LHR). Other airports like Bristol (BRS), Edinburgh (EDI), Manchester (MAN), Birmingham (BHX), and Belfast International (BFS) also offer flights to Bordeaux.
When to go
Visit between May and October for pleasant weather and blooming vineyards. The harvest season in September and October is particularly magical, with vineyards at their most beautiful and winemaking in full swing.
Where to stay
Bordeaux offers a wide range of accommodation prices, with budget options starting around £24 per night and luxury hotels reaching upwards of £214 per night. There are also unique accommodation options such as castles, with prices starting an £240 per night.
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