The European city with a cave dwelling quarter 

Nestled in the hills above the city of Granada, the Cuevas del Sacromonte have been occupied for centuries.

‘Everyone comes to Granada to see the Alhambra,’ Paloma says, ascending stone steps in the ancient alleyways of Albaicin. ‘It is the most popular monument in Spain, with around 2.6 million people visiting each year.’ She glances over her shoulder towards the tour group, and the Alhambra, which is at our backs. Built upon an outcrop of the Sierra Nevada, the UNESCO World Heritage Site sits on a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. She smiles, her eyebrows raised. ‘And I know where to find the best view of it in all of Granada.’

Paloma leads us further north of the famed fortress and beyond the eastern city walls, along a gravel path towards Valparaiso Hill in Sacromonte. With the sprawling city of Granada before us and an birds eye view of the Alhambra, the hill is undoubtedly a frontrunner for a sunset viewing platform. We soon discover another unique and enchanting structure not far from where we stand. Hundreds, in fact. Carved into the slopes of Valparaiso Hill are cave homes.

Caves are amongst the earliest human dwellings. Hundreds of thousands of years ago, they provided shelter from storms and protection from predators. They became sacred spaces used for ritual and ceremony; canvases for engravers and artists. It is believed that the Caves of Sacromonte, or the Cuevas del Sacromonte, were originally built by the Romans to use as tombs or shelters, but they were first inhabited in the 15^th century by Spanish gypsies who were fleeing persecution. Since then, the caves have grown to become a vibrant hub of Roma culture, and are most famously the birthplace of the ‘Zambra mora’ flamenco.

It is clear that the caves are still inhabited today. On the surface, many resemble Mediterranean cottages: whitewashed behind neat wooden fences, with windows and doorframes painted olive green or Santorini blue. They are decorated with dangling plants and hang plates, and have cushioned deckchairs out front. Upon one, a grey cat dozes peacefully in the afternoon sun.

Inside, the cave dwellings are narrow tunnels leading back into the earth. Though the floors are paved with tiles, the dome-shaped ceilings remain uneven rocky surfaces, so there’s no forgetting you’re in the belly of a mountain. These caves, which are closer to the foot of Valparaiso Hill, are mostly owned or rented by legal residents who lives there for reasons linked to their lifestyle or cultural roots.

Efforts to preserve the cultural traditions of the Spanish gypsies have opened up the Caves for tourism. Many have been adapted to host live flamenco shows for tourists, with Templo del Flamenco, Venta El Gallo and Zambra María La Canastera amongst the most popular choices. For those more artistically inclined, flamenco classes and workshops are on offer. ‘If you’re lucky, you might get a tip-off for a ‘peña’, Paloma jokes, meaning the ‘clubs’ or spaces where enthusiasts and artists informally gather to jam and enjoy flamenco music in a more authentic way.

The Sacromonte Caves Museum, Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, is comprised of 11 cave rooms, including a ‘typical’ dwelling, featuring basic wooden furniture decorated with bold, beautiful drapes. To overcome the lack of natural storage, kitchen items are placed on hooks to line the cave walls, hanging up next to vibrant red and black flamenco dresses. Other reconstructed rooms include a kitchen, stable and craft-making spaces for pottery, weaving and blacksmithing, providing insights into the lives of those who have inhabited the caves over the past century.  

Further down the hill in La Chumbera is the Ethnological Museum of the Gypsy Women. Set up by ROMI, The Association of Gypsy Women, this museum centres the lives and traditions of Gypsy women, highlighting their unique contribution to the culture and society through displays of art, literature, musical instruments and traditional medicine.

We do not visit the more isolated caves towards the top of the mountain, but learn that they are largely occupied largely by illegal squatters, many who are also undocumented immigrants. These caves provided a place of refuge for those seeking it, as Sacromonte did for the Roma community in the 15^th century.